straightsix

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====== Suspension ======

For a "sports car", the suspension should also be right.... 
So I dismantled, checked, cleaned and reassembled everything with new PU bearings...\\
At the same time, I also converted to SPAX dampers (https://www.spax-deutschland.de/) - initially only at the front.

===== Front axle =====


{{ start:2-tr6:vorderachse:20160310_172759.jpg?direct&200 |}}

You should check the areas marked on the next picture directly: cracks can form on the lower circles (poor welding from the factory) and the whole thing tears out....

The upper circle shows rust scars on the upper wishbone mount (Fulcrum pin), which leads to wear of the rubbers and consequently play...
This then gives a funny ride:-/
{{ start:2-tr6:vorderachse:querlenkeraufnahme.jpg?direct&400 |}}


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==== Bracket for steering gear ====

{{start:2-tr6:vorderachse:img_20190914_144603.jpg?direct&400 |}}{{ start:2-tr6:vorderachse:img_20190914_145309.jpg?direct&400|}}

The bearing rubbers were through...when converting to PU bearing rubbers, the holders must be screwed on under preload...for this there's a special tool or the DIY store solution shown here made of M12 (?) threaded rod, 4 nuts and two "store tapes", which I have diligently adapted with the flex...


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==== Re-storing the steering column ====

The steering column of the TR runs in plain bearings, which wear out....

{{ start:2-tr6:vorderachse:20160112_190116.jpg?direct&400 |}}

The best way to do this is to remove the steering column, i.e. the steering rod including the steering tube...then you can cut out the "rubber noses" of the old bearings with a cutter knife and thus pull the steering rod out of the steering tube quite easily and fit new plain bearings....
Attention: From TR6 onwards, the thickening for the steering wheel lock is in the way...on earlier models, you can simply pull out the steering rod because there is no such thing in the middle yellow circle....
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===== Rear axle =====
==== Control arm mount ====
The same problem at the rear: Here the bolts of the wishbone mount are rusting away
 away:
{{ start:2-tr6:hinterachse:20151225_184237.jpg?direct&400 |}}

==== Swingarm ====

And the swing arms tear at the transition to the wheel flange mount:

{{ start:2-tr6:hinterachse:20160119_202713.jpg?direct&400 |}}

However, these can be welded by an aluminum specialist:
{{ start:2-tr6:hinterachse:img-20171221-wa0001.jpeg?direct&400 |}}
Here I relied on the experience of the company https://www.metallverarbeitung-spiess.de/qualitaet-know-how/kurioses.php...

You should also check the tightness of the bolts holding the wheel flange in the swingarm from time to time...the threads in the swingarm tend to loosen here...keyword "contact corrosion"
Repair: Either with the famous "helicoil" or with other bolts...you can get them online...

==== Damper ====

=== Armstrong dampers ===
...The lever shocks that were originally installed had already been fitted with an "uprated" bottom valve...but this is of no use if the pistons are simply worn out...

You can use Harley-Davidson Silicon damper oil...as "30's" oil this is already a step towards harder damping...


=== Gas pressure shock absorbers ===

In the meantime, the rear axle has also been converted to SPAX (adjustable)...
Depending on the choice of bracket (I have the Bastuck brackets with TÜV approval), make sure that the shock absorber does not serve as a stop! 
That's why I extended the brackets and now the rubber buffer is the stop again...\\

{{start:2-tr6:hinterachse:spax2.jpg?400 |}} {{ start:2-tr6:hinterachse:spax1.jpg?400|}} \\ 


===== Spare wheel =====

To have more space, I got myself a spare wheel from the Volvo....
That way you can put more spare parts in the spare wheel well that you don't need because only parts that you don't have with you will break...

{{ start:2-tr6:sonstiges:img_20170414_163440.jpg?400|}}{{ start:2-tr6:sonstiges:notrad2.jpg?400 |}} \\