en:start:2_tr6:megasquirt
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en:start:2_tr6:megasquirt [21:44 05 /11/2023] – created peter | en:start:2_tr6:megasquirt [07:37 29 /01/2025] (aktuell) – gelöscht peter | ||
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- | ====== Electronic engine management / Megasquirt ====== | ||
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- | A controversial topic among TR6 friends...I just wanted to finally tackle it:\\ | ||
- | I've been struggling with electronic injection since my Kawasaki Z1100 GP (built in '81) and already wanted to install a Megasquirt injection system in my Suzuki TL1000R (which failed in the early 2000s due to a lack of available hardware and software), so now I've done it on my TR6: | ||
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- | {{start: | ||
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- | ===== Basics: ===== | ||
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- | A big praise and thanks go to Andreas, who is one of the pioneers with the Megasquirt on the TR6 and saved me a lot of work and learning money and without whom the conversion would not exist...\\ | ||
- | Thanks also to Sascha, who was available as a sparring partner. | ||
- | And last but not least to Harry, who put up with the crying...; | ||
- | \\ | ||
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- | An electronic engine management system (hereinafter referred to as " | ||
- | What you get is: \\ | ||
- | A proper ignition spark in every (!!1elf) situation and always the right mixture....and that usually brings more power than can be achieved with " | ||
- | If I set the ignition timing on the EFI to 11.4° from TDC, then it sparks at 11.4° before TDC.... and doesn' | ||
- | I also always have optimum charging time of the coil....egal, | ||
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- | You can read below which control and hardware components are available and why I chose them..... | ||
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- | ===== Hardware: ===== | ||
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- | ==== Control unit / ECU ==== | ||
- | I bought a " | ||
- | To be able to test the whole thing before installation, | ||
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- | There' | ||
- | All you need is an 80-watt soldering station, some good solder and a small side cutter...{{ start: | ||
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- | In the meantime, I have to admit: An MS2 would have done as well and would have been easier to set up...With the MS3, however, you have the option of implementing sequential injection and other gimmicks. For example, I have two modes: "fuel saving" | ||
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- | Alternative engine management computers are for example (in random order): | ||
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- | https:// | ||
- | https:// | ||
- | http:// | ||
- | https:// | ||
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- | If you want to try it yourself, I recommend the Megasquirt and one of the top three.... | ||
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- | {{start: | ||
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- | ==== Triggerwheel ==== | ||
- | I used a 6.5 inch 36-1 tooth wheel from http:// | ||
- | A friend combined the whole thing with a new pulley and balanced it for me...now has the same weight as the original pulley...just with " | ||
- | Essential component, without which (almost) nothing works....You just have to find out somehow where the pistons are in order to be able to inject and ignite correctly... | ||
- | If necessary, this can also be done with a signal from the ignition distributor...but then without ignition control.... | ||
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- | ==== Pump ==== | ||
- | Here I use an original BOSCH fuel pump 0 580 254 950 from a Mercedes Benz series W124\\ | ||
- | 15mm inlet and lowest power consumption at the required pressure\\ | ||
- | Nevertheless, | ||
- | Update: The PWM control works (alone) and has to be, after a measurement at idle on the return from the pressure regulator -> tank showed 120L/h... | ||
- | This is definitely too much and only leads to heating of the fuel, which you don't want! I will reduce it to max. 80L/h or have it completely regulated by the MS...there has to be a minimum quantity at the return flow so that the fuel rail always has cool fuel... | ||
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- | {{start: | ||
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- | ==== Plumbing ==== | ||
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- | Pipes: | ||
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- | https:// | ||
- | Plus the matching Dash6 fittings...either also from Sandtler, or from Arlows | ||
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- | The two lines / hoses run parallel to the brake line under the car and are heat-insulated accordingly | ||
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- | {{start: | ||
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- | You should include a fuel cooler in the return line, which is mounted before the water cooler... | ||
- | http:// | ||
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- | I didn't install one and didn't have any problems even in summer 2018... Possibly interesting when driving over mountain passes. | ||
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- | ==== Injectors ==== | ||
- | come with mri from the Opel Omega V6...are available used from 25€ in the bay....25€ per set! | ||
- | if you use an injection nozzle calculator (e.g. http:// | ||
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- | ==== Throttle boddies ==== | ||
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- | There are various options here... | ||
- | The most " | ||
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- | {{start: | ||
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- | Suitable solutions are required for carburetor engine conversions. These range from spacers that go between the carburetor and intake manifold and hold the injection nozzle (https:// | ||
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- | Many offerings are based on intake manifolds for Weber DCOE carburetors and correspondingly designed throttle bodies with injection nozzle mounts. | ||
- | This goes as far as DCOE " | ||
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- | {{ start: | ||
- | Another way is the single throttle valve, which is also used in many everyday cars due to its simple design: | ||
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- | But it is not without reason that people like Ferrari/ | ||
- | Throttle response etc. is completely different to that of a single throttle valve.... | ||
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- | But it's all a question of money... | ||
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- | https:// | ||
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- | https:// | ||
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- | ==== Fuel pressure ==== | ||
- | At 3.5 bar, it is well below the operating pressure of the old Lucas injection system of 7.5 bar. If you buy a complete Opel intake manifold, the matching fuel pressure regulator is usually included, which should be connected in parallel to the air pressure sensor. Background: When the throttle valves are closed/high vacuum, the fuel pressure is lowered. This allows longer injection times to be achieved at idle...better for the mixture formation... | ||
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- | \\ | ||
- | ==== Ignition ==== | ||
- | The original distributor is used here...only the ignition coil is now fired by the ECU and no longer by the contact in the distributor... | ||
- | So you have the precise timing of a static ignition with the look of the original... | ||
- | Alternatively, | ||
- | Even better (because more " | ||
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- | Especially with the TR5/TR6PI, the freely programmable ignition is the biggest step forward, as the original PI only works with a speed curve and the accelerator pedal position (vacuum) is not included in the ignition timing. | ||
- | This has to do with the modest vacuum situation due to the 280° camshaft, which only generates a low vacuum anyway, which then quickly collapses when you accelerate. That's why Triumph/ | ||
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- | If you feel like it, you can even install a knock sensor and go to the limits of pre-ignition without destroying the engine. | ||
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- | ===== Sensorik: ===== | ||
- | ==== Kurbelwelle ==== | ||
- | Der Kurbelwellensensor ist ein Standardteil, | ||
- | {{start: | ||
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- | ==== Wassertemperatur ==== | ||
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- | {{ start: | ||
- | Dieser muß lediglich ein wenig abgedreht werden und findet seinen Platz im Wasserpumpengehäuse im Abgang der " | ||
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- | ==== Lufttemperatur ==== | ||
- | Als Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT) kommt ein "Open Element" | ||
- | Für diesen braucht man einen https:// | ||
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- | {{ start: | ||
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- | ==== Unterdruck ==== | ||
- | Hier kommt der im Kit mitgelieferte MPX4250 zum Einsatz, der mit 4mm Druckleitung von No-Limits-Motorsport und nem selbst gelöteten Adapter am Unterdruckanschluß des mittleren Drosselklappenkörpers hängt. | ||
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- | ==== Drosselklappensensor ==== | ||
- | Als Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) kommt ein Ford Standardteil zum Einsatz, welches mit nem Halter auf der verlängerten Welle des vorderen Drosselklappenkörpers sitzt... | ||
- | {{ start: | ||
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- | ==== Lambdasonde ==== | ||
- | Hier nutz ich die Innovate MTX-L mit Bosch LSU 4.9 weiter, die ich schon zur Abstimmung der Lucas-Einspritzung genutzt habe...für die Megasquirt reicht auch eine Spartan2 Controller mit LSU 4.9 Sonde. | ||
- | Um die Sonde zu befestigen, wurde seiner Zeit ne passende Muffe in den Krümmer geschweißt...wichtig ist der Winkel, damit Kondesnwasser aus der Sonde laufen kann....also bitte im oberen Halbkreis des Rohres montieren...sonst kann Kondenswasser nicht raus laufen und sie hält nur 1 Monat... | ||
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- | {{ start: | ||
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- | ==== Kabelbaum ==== | ||
- | Hier würd ich mich an die Kabelfarben aus der offiziellen Doku halten. Ich hab meine Kabel + Schutz-Schläuche bei Peter Böllmann von http:// | ||
- | Ansonsten ist aber auch der fertige Kabelbaum von Ihm http:// | ||
- | Für die anderen EFIs gibt´s meist auch fertige Kabelbäume mit losen Enden, die man dann nur noch an die jeweiligen Sensoren legen muß... | ||
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- | =====Software: | ||
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- | ==== Programmierung / Parametrisierung ==== | ||
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- | 1. Man braucht nen Laptop....ich möchte die Auto-Tune-Funktion der Software Tunerstudio von EFI Analytics nicht mehr missen...\\ | ||
- | Entweder man hat nen lang laufenden Akku oder besorgt sich nen passenden Autoadapter für die Stromversorgung...auch wird vor jeder Änderung ein Backup der Settings erstellt, so daß man immer wieder auf ne funktionierende Config zurück gehen kann | ||
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- | 2. Verbunden wird die Megasquirt über eine Serielle Verbindung.....entweder per (USB-)Kabel oder per Funk... | ||
- | Ich hab mir für 5,-€ bei Ebay ein HC-06 Bluetooth Modul besorgt...nachdem ich es geschafft habe, die Verbindungsgeschwindigkeit des Moduls auf 115200 BAUD umzustellen, | ||
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- | 3. zusammen mit dem Bluetooth-Modul läßt sich die Megasquirt auch über´s Smartphone/ | ||
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- | ==== Bluetoothmodul ==== | ||
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- | Oben erwähntes HC-06 ist gut und günstig...leider ist die im I_Net zu findende Dokumentation nicht immer Up-to-date...mit der neuesten Firmware haben sich leider die AT-Befehlssätze geändert, um das Modul auf die für unsere Zwecke benötigte BAUD-Rate von 115200 einzustellen (Das Ding läuft per Default mit 9600) | ||
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- | Modul per USB <-> Serial-Adapter oder - falls noch vorhanden - COM-Port an den PC anschließen und mit Teraterm per Copy + Paste die Befehle:\\ | ||
- | \\ | ||
- | AT+NAME: | ||
- | AT+PSWD:" | ||
- | AT+UART=115200, | ||
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- | senden... | ||
- | Alle befehle müssen mit einem " | ||
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- | Danach die Verbindung unterbrechen und neu aufbauen...jetzt allerdings mit 115200 BAUD... | ||
- | ein " | ||
en/start/2_tr6/megasquirt.1699220647.txt.gz · Zuletzt geändert: 21:44 05 /11/2023 von peter